Cod in Pil-Pil sauce

The Essentials: Ingredients List (For 4 People - Tasting Portion)

Recipe Summary

• Prep Time 36-48 hours (Desalting Time)

• Cook Time 20-30 minutes

• Servings 4 people (Main Course)

• Origin Bilbao, Bizkaia (Basque Country), Spain

• Cuisine Spanish / Basque Traditional

• The Star:

  • 4 Thick Pieces Salt Cod Loin (Bacalao), about 180-200g (6-7 oz) each, skin on. (Skin on is NON-NEGOTIABLE).

• The Aromatics:

  • 8 Cloves Garlic, sliced thinly.

  • 2-3 Cayenne Peppers or small dried red chilis (Guindillas), halved lengthwise (optional).

• The Liquid & Seasoning:

  • 400 ml (approx. 1.7 cups) Extra Virgin Olive Oil (mild, high-quality, not overly aggressive in flavor).

  • 100 ml (approx. 7 tbsp) Water (optional, for starting the emulsion).

  • Salt, to taste (used very sparingly, if at all).

Culinary Alchemy: Mastering Cod in Pil-Pil Sauce (Bacalao al Pil-Pil) from Bizkaia

If the Basque Country has one signature dish that embodies its deep respect for tradition, precise technique, and pure flavor, it is the Bacalao al Pil-Pil (Cod in Pil-Pil Sauce). Hailing from Bizkaia, particularly the historical capital of Bilbao, this dish is not just a recipe; it is a culinary legend and a test of a chef's skill. The name Pil-Pil itself is onomatopoeic, describing the rhythmic sound made by the cod skin sizzling in olive oil as the cook gently shakes the casserole to create the famous creamy emulsion.

A Dish Forged in Legend and Commerce

The Bacalao al Pil-Pil is inextricably linked to the history of Bilbao and its vibrant trade routes. Salt cod (bacalao) was one of the few items that could be preserved for long voyages, making it an economic staple in the coastal regions.

The Tale of the 20,000 Cod: The most famous (and often disputed) anecdote traces the dish's popularity to a shipment error in Bilbao in 1835. A local merchant, having ordered 200 units of cod, mistakenly received 20,000 just as the city was about to be besieged during the Carlist Wars. With the city under siege and the stock impossible to sell, the residents were forced to consume the cod. Due to food scarcity, they combined it with the three other non-perishable staples they had: olive oil, garlic, and cayenne peppers. Thus, a simple survival meal became an enduring culinary masterpiece, showcasing how the Basque genius transforms basic necessity into luxury.

The Pil-Pil Philosophy: This dish perfectly captures the minimalist Basque ethos: use only three core ingredients—cod, olive oil, and garlic—and let their natural chemistry create a spectacular sauce. There are no thickeners like flour or cream; the sauce is purely an emulsion of the cod's released gelatin and the extra virgin olive oil.

Process

Step-by-Step Mastery: The Emulsion of the Gods

• Phase 2: Infusing the Oil

1. The Vessel: Use a shallow earthenware cazuela or a heavy-bottomed, shallow stainless steel pan that allows the oil to cover the cod easily.

2. Gentle Heat: Pour the 400 ml of olive oil into the pan. Heat it over very low heat. Add the thinly sliced garlic and the cayenne peppers.

3. The Toast: Cook the garlic gently for 5 to 7 minutes. The garlic slices should turn pale golden brown, but never dark brown or burnt. This process infuses the oil without overpowering the delicate cod.

4. Remove Aromatics: Remove the garlic slices and cayenne peppers from the oil with a slotted spoon and set them aside. The oil is now perfectly flavored and ready. Turn off the heat.

1. Positioning the Cod: Once the oil has cooled slightly (it should not be aggressively hot), place the four cod loins into the pan, skin-side UP. The oil should almost cover the cod.

2. The Initial Slow Cook: Return the pan to the lowest possible heat. The cod should cook gently without bubbling, a process known as confit. Cook for 5 to 8 minutes on this side. This initial heat releases the precious gelatin from the skin down into the oil.

3. The Flip: Gently flip the cod loins so they are now skin-side DOWN. Cook for another 3 to 5 minutes.Cooking: Add the potato chunks to the reserved octopus water. Simmer until tender (about 15-20 minutes). Drain them completely.

• Phase 3: Gelatin Release and Initial Cook

• Phase 4: The Emulsion (The Pil-Pil Dance)

1. Creating the Vinaigrette: Remove the pan from the heat. Carefully transfer the cod loins to a warm plate and set aside. Pour off about half of the oil into a separate container.

2. The Starting Point: Add about 100 ml of cold fish stock or water (some traditionalists use water from the cod's desalting, or simply a splash of cold water) back into the oil remaining in the pan. The change in temperature is key.

3. The Rhythm: Place the pan back on the lowest possible heat. Using one hand, begin the gentle, continuous, circular rocking motion (el meneado). Do not stir with a spoon. The combination of the cod gelatin (left behind in the oil), the olive oil, and the cool liquid will gradually emulsify.

4. Building the Sauce: As you shake, the sauce will thicken and turn a pale, opaque yellow-white. It should make a rhythmic, satisfying pil-pil-pil sound. Slowly, in thin streams, pour the reserved oil back into the pan while continuing the rocking motion. The sauce should thicken to the consistency of a very light mayonnaise or a creamy custard. If the sauce breaks, immediately take it off the heat, let it cool, and try adding a small ice cube or a teaspoon of cold water while shaking vigorously.

• Phase 1: Preparation (The Day Before)

1. Desalting the Cod: This is the most crucial step. Soak the salt cod loins in plenty of cold water for 36 to 48 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. The cod should still be slightly salty, but not aggressively so.

2. Drying: Once desalinated, remove the cod and pat it completely dry with paper towels.

3. Temperature: Allow the cod loins to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before cooking. This ensures even cooking and better gelatin release.

• Phase 5: Serving

1. Re-Integration: Once the sauce is thick and creamy, gently place the four cod loins back into the pan. Baste them with the sauce for 1 minute.

2. Presentation: Serve immediately directly from the cazuela. Garnish the dish by placing the reserved sliced garlic and chilis on top of the cod.

Expert Tips for a Perfect Finish

• The Gelatin is Gold: The skin of the cod is the source of the gelatin that thickens the sauce. You must use skin-on loins and treat the skin with care to maximize its release.

• The Tradition of the Cazuela: Serving the Bacalao al Pil-Pil in the traditional earthenware cazuela is essential. The clay retains heat perfectly and allows the sauce to continue its gentle "pil-pil" sizzle at the table, maintaining the atmosphere of this historic dish.

• Oil Temperature Control: If the oil gets too hot during the emulsification (meneado), the emulsion will "break," separating the fat from the liquid. Keep the heat incredibly low; the technique is more about friction and temperature contrast than cooking.

• Pairing: The richness of the oil and the sauce demands a sharp, crisp white wine, such as a dry Txakoli or a high-acid Cava.